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12 rosés to drink now or any time of year

Manissy Castle Tavel Cuvée des Lys 2020, 14 percent, $20

The dark, powerful rosés of Tavel in the southern Rhône Valley are not for everyone. They are more appropriate with a meal than as an aperitif by the water. But this bottle is a great example of a dark, powerful style of rosé that was once popular but is somewhat lost in today’s pale rosé world. This wine, sort of pale Maraschino in color, is made from 60% Grenache, 30% Clairette and 10% Syrah. It’s dry, with just a hint of fruity and floral flavors and lots of minerality. (Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, Pennsylvania)

Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

Fabien Jouves Wine of France Rosé At the Table!!! 2021, 12%, $23

Fabien Jouves makes some of my favorite Cahors wines under the Mas del Périé label. It produces under its own name a range of natural wines like À Table!!!, essentially an invitation to come and eat, which is what you’ll want to do with this dark rosé. It is made from Malbec, the grape variety of Cahors, as well as two other grape varieties common in southwestern France, Tannat and Merlot, all grown biodynamically. It’s fresh and deliciously complex, with earthy aromas and flavors of red fruits and flowers. (Selections Zev Rovine, Brooklyn, NY)

Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

To Roca Clàssic Penedès Rosat Reserva 2018, 12%, $23

AT Roca produces excellent sparkling wines in Catalonia, the wines that were collectively called cava until many of the top producers stopped using the term, wary of its mass-produced connotation. Roca instead opted for Clàssic Penedès, an identification for sparkling wines with strict regulations, including a requirement for organic viticulture. This rosat (Catalan for rosado, meaning Spanish for rosé) is made like a champagne, with a second fermentation in the bottle. It is very dry, floral and very refreshing. (José Pastor Selections/Llaurador Wines, Fairfax, CA)

Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times